Custom Knife

Swiss Army Knife

2012-01-16T23:53:00.000-08:00

A Story of One Swiss Army Knife, One Airplane, Two Fathers and Two Sons

My son and I (and my red swiss army midnight manager knife) were returning from a Washington D.C. trip when our life took a series of unexpected twists and turns. By way of background, this story ends with my 9 year old son in tears, a genuinely sympathetic United Airlines employee and the gifting of my favorite red midnight manager swiss army knife to a father and son that we will never know.

The day starts at 3:00 a.m. with my son and I waiting for the blue Shuttle Express van to take us to Duells Airport, D.C. Naturally, it shows up nearly an hour late and the stress level is high enough to make the flight to Southern California. Next, we are dropped off at the wrong terminal which requires us to walk a country mile to the correct terminal. We check the baggage with only minutes remaining to board the aircraft. We can "relax" after we go through the scanner with the carry-on bag. We were not so lucky.

The nice fella at the scanner stated that the swiss army knife key chain would need to go with the checked baggage. We mistakenly believed it was in the checked bag. Off we go to check the carry-on item. We were told too late and it was not going to make it on the airplane. Further, we must board the plane immediately or we were assured to miss our flight.

It is at this point that I notice my son is in tears about the fate of our favorite knife. He reminded me of its importance and that he knows it is my "favorite" knife. He has heard me tell everyone how much I enjoy the white light, bottle opener, writing pen, knife and more. I told him I can get another identical one. He remained upset and stated it would not be the same (from a sentimental perspective). I had to admit that I really enjoyed the little pocket knife and felt badly to leave it behind.

With only seconds to decide the fate of my loyal buddy (the Victorinox knife), I looked around the airport and noticed a father saying goodbye to his son. I asked them if they would like my knife since I could not take it on the flight. They smiled and said they would love to have the knife. I said it's yours for free and I asked them to enjoy this great little tool. The father, luckily, said he was not flying and he would take care of it.

We boarded the flight with the door slammed behind us immediately. I explained to my son that it was my fault for not double checking to make sure it was in the correct bag. I further suggested that the knife may help the boy's father in an emergency situation. He seemed to feel a little better after he imagined it helping another person someday.

The lesson learned is to be extra careful when traveling with these terrific knives. They are fine quality products that are painful to lose or surrender to anyone!

The Balisong Knife or Known as (Butterfly Knife)

2010-01-30T22:37:00.000-08:00

The balisong knife other wise known as the batangas knife, fan knives click clack, and most known it the U.S. as a butterfly knife. Is a knife that would be considered a pocket knife it has two handles that are both on a hinge and the knife itself folds in to the handle and in the hands of someone that knows how to use it and be flipped open every quickly with just one hand. For the most part these knives are pocket knives size but are also make in sword size and can be over three feet when fully opened. These bigger blades are not surprisingly called baliswords.

All those now on is really sure where the name balisong comes form that are a few thoughts as to what it is referring to. In the Tagalog language balisong or Baling sungay means broken horn, and because the first knives where made of animal horns many think that is where the name comes from. Others think that they are called balisong for the reason the they are thought to first be invented in a town called balisong. These pocket knives origins are from the Philippines and though discouraged now for hundreds of years where once used to fight in duels.

These pocket knives where not known to western civilizations until the Spanish came and governed the Philippines and then made these knives popular. Though evidence suggests that Balisong knives have been apart of the Filipino fighting arts since 800AD. Balisongs where brought back to the states after WWII when troops that where fighting in the pacific came home and brought these handy pocket knives back with them.

A balisong is mainly made up of ten parts. The edge, swedge, choil, kicker, pivot pins, tang, tang pin, bite handle, safe handle, and latch. The edge is the sharp blade of the knife. The swedge is the back side of the blade that is made to look sharp but is not. The choil is a curve above the kicker to help you to sharpen the blade. The kicker is what stops the blade for hitting the inside of the knife when closing to help keep the blade sharp. The pivot pins are the pins that the knife pivots on to open and close. The tang is where the blade come in to the handle. The bite handle is the part that closes on the sharp side of the blade. The safe handle is the part that closes on the back side of the blade, the part that is not sharp. The latch, this is what keeps the knife closed.

There are now a number of knives makers in the U.S that make balisongs or butterfly knives. One of them is Benchmade. Another well known knife make is Emerson. Emersons very first knives where balisongs that he made while studding Filipino martial arts in California. Because of the nature of these pocket knives many countries have them outlawed. But are very sought after by collectors.

Bayonets History

2010-01-26T00:00:00.000-08:00

"All nations boast of their prowess with the bayonet, but few men really enjoy a hand-to-hand fight with the bayonet. English and French both talk much of the bayonet but in Egypt in 1801 they threw stones at each other when their ammunition was exhausted and one English sergeant was killed by a stone.

At Inkerman again the British threw stones at the Russians, not without effect; and I am told upon good authority that the Russians and Japanese, both of whom proffes to love the bayonet, threw stones at each other rather than close, even in this twentieth-century."

J.W.Fortescue, Military History

Antique Spanish hunt Plug Bayonet from 1700

The bayonet stems directly from the various forms of polearm, it was obviously inappropriate to have a firearm-bearing soldier encumbered by a pike, yet there was need for a polearm to stand off cavalry and for hand-to-hand encounters when ammunition was gone or when there was no time to reload.

The original "bayonnette" - the name came from the town of its supposed origin, Bayonne in France - was introduced into the French Army in 1647.

It was a plug bayonet, a spear-like blade to which was attached a long conical steel plug inserted directly into the muzzle of the soldier`s musket, a collar lodging against the barrel to prevent it sliding too far in. This had certain defects; the musket could not be fired once the bayonet was fitted, and during the act of fitting the soldier was virtually unarmed. Misfortune overtook an English army at Killiecrankie in 1689, when a sudden rush of Scottish Highlanders overwhelmed them as they were fixing bayonets.

As a result of these defects, the socket bayonet was developed; this had the blade cranked and attached to a hollow sleeve which slipped over the muzzle of the musket. The blade lay below the axis of the barrel and left sufficient clearance to permit the weapon to be loaded and fired while the bayonet was fixed.

Although generally considered as the infantryman`s assault weapon, the bayonet was originally a defensive instrument. Steady infantry standing two or three deep and adopting a "square" formation could defend their position against a sudden rush of cavalry; the combined length of the musket and bayonet was sufficient to permit a standing soldier to reach a man mounted upon a horse.

The 28th of Foot form a square at Waterloo to resist a French cavalry

The idea of using a short sword as a bayonet was tried from time to time but the first regular users of the sword-type blade appear to have been the British rifle regiments in the early 1800s. However, the advent of breech-loading, and then magazine arms provided infantry with a firepower capable of beating off cavalry, at which time the bayonet turned from being primarily defensive to being a personal offensive weapon. For this a knife-like blade was of more use than a spike blade, and so from the middle of the 19th century the knife or sword blade became common, though a few armies still retained spike blades.

The difficulties of fixing bayonets in the heat of the battle led some armies to adopt permanently-attached bayonets which folded above or below the barrel of the weapon and could be released and locked into place very quickly when required. A singularity of the Imperial Russian Army, which carried over into the Soviet Army, was the permanently fixed bayonet; no scabbards were issued, and the bayonet remained on the rifle muzzle at all times.

With the adoption of modern short assault rifles the utility of the bayonet as a weapon was placed in doubt; the combination is not well suited to bayonet fighting.

"Knife Steel Classification" by Terry Primos

2010-01-17T19:12:00.000-08:00

The naming convention for steels can get quite confusing at times. Some are named with a series of letters and numbers, others are named with just numbers. There actually is some degree of order among the chaos.

Listed in this installment are two of the methods used in the classification of steels. One is a system devised by the American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) in cooperation with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This system groups tool steels by their purpose or unique properties. The second method, called the Unified Numbering System (UNS) uses a series of 4 to 5 digits to classify steels according to their primary alloying element, the approximate content of the primary alloying element, and the approximate carbon content in hundredths of one percent.

I will apologize in advance to those looking for some rhyme or reason in the naming conventions of various stainless steels such as 440C, 154CM, ATS-34, etc. You won't find it here. This was neither an oversight, nor an intended omission. The fact is that after several hours of research on the Internet, perusal through the books in my library and a couple of phone calls including one to a steel mill, I was unable to get any information providing a correlation between the names of these steels and the group they fall into.

Classification of Tool Steels

Designation	Description or Notable Properties
W	Water hardening
S	Shock resisting
O	Oil hardening
A	Air hardening
D	Die steel, air hardening, high chromium
H	Hot work, chromium, tungsten, and/or molybdenum
T	Tungsten alloy, high speed steel
M	Molybdenum alloy, high speed steel
L	Low alloy, special purpose
F	Carbon-tungsten, special purpose
P	Mild steels, low carbon and other types

Using this chart we can make some sense out of names like O1, A2, D2, W2, L6, etc. But what about steels like 1084, 1095, 5160, and 52100? Where in the world did they come up with that? These steels are classified under the Unified Numbering System, which in my opinion provides us with more pertinent information as you'll see below.

UNS Classification
Under this system, steels are assigned a series of 4-5 numbers. The first number tells us the primary alloying element or elements, with 1 being plain carbon steel containing no significant alloying element. The second number represents the approximate percentage of the primary alloying elements. The final numbers indicate the approximate carbon content of the steel in hundredths of one percent. Let's take a look.

1 - Plain Carbon (not an alloy steel)
2 - Nickel
3 - Chromium and Nickel
4 - Molybdenum
5 - Chromium
6 - Chromium and Vanadium
7 - Tungsten
8 - Nickel, Chromium and Molybdenum
9 - Silicon and Manganese

Let's start with an easy one. With 1084 the first digit tells us that this is a plain carbon steel. The second digit shows that there are no alloying elements. The final two digits show that the steel contains approximately .84 percent carbon. Pretty simple. How about 52100? The first digit shows that the primary alloying element is chromium. The second digit means that there is approximately 2 percent chromium (this is rounded off). The last group of numbers show that the carbon content is roughly 1 percent.

One thing that puzzled me for awhile was the second digit. If a steel is classified as 50xx, then is it a chromium steel with no chromium? No. It is a low chromium steel. For example, 50100 contains about .45 percent chromium. The .45 is not enough to round up to 1 percent, so it gets the value of 0. 52100 usually contains about 1.5 percent chromium, so it gets rounded up to a value of 2. A good way to look at the 5xxx types of steel is:

50xx = low chromium
51xx = medium chromium
52xx = high chromium

I hope that this information will be useful to you. Please understand that I'm no expert in this area. If any of my observations are technically or grossly inaccurate, please let me know.

Knife Care and Maintenance

2010-01-06T17:00:00.000-08:00

1. To keep your knife in the best possible working condition, follow the points outlined below.

2. To take excellent care of your knife collection, follow the points outlined below.

3. To clean or not to clean your vintage knives, read and then decide by the itembelow.

4. To take excellent care of your kitchen knives, follow the points outlined below.

Knife Care and Maintenance: Keep the blades dry and wipe fingerprints and moisture off, after use, with a soft all cotton cloth or chamois. This is particularly important with blades of high carbon steel. Tarnishing or oxidation is a normal property of carbon steel and cannot be avoided.This normal oxidation or tarnish actually helps protect the knife from rust and will have blue gray tones, rather than rust red tones. Applying a couple drops of any quality oil or silicon treatment to the blade with a soft all cotton cloth will provide excellent protection. A good wax is also excellent protection.
Check your knives often for possible trouble spots. If you see tarnish or oxidation develop with reddish tones, this is the start of rust and should be cleaned as quickly as possible. If any stains appear, try removing the stain or tarnish with a standard metal cleaner or polish. Blades of most stainless steels used in knives are not rustproof but are rust or stain resistance. So therefore stainless steel blades should still be kept clean and wiped dry after use, especially many of the new high carbon stainless steels like ATS-34, and CMP-T440V.

Folding knives require special care.

When not in use, store knives and leather sheaths separately because leather does absorb moisture and can rust your blade. Tanning salts and acids present in the leather can rust or tarnish steel. Keep leather sheaths limber with leather preservative or mink oil. What is green verdigris?
Folding knives require special care. Keep the locking device on folding models clean and free from debris. An occasional drop of light oil at each joint will assure smooth blade action in opening and closing. Each blade should click open smoothly and snap shut. This opening and closing is what the old timers called "Walks and Talks" well.
Keep knives sharp. A sharp knife is safer to use. A sharp knife requires minimal effort to cut and therefore has less a chance of slipping. The secret of proper sharpening is to do it regularly. Use a sharpening steel, or other mechanism frequently. If you have difficulty maintaining an edge on knives, have them professionally sharpened.
Never sharpen blades on a power-driven grinding wheel, which can burn the temper from the blade. This is the type of high-speed grinder found in many home shops.

Moisture and fingerprints are the
prime villains to avoid.

Remember that knives are cutting tools and blades are very sharp. Therefore, please exercise caution when handling your knife. And, never use your knife as chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or hammer. If your knife is a good one then a chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or hammer will cost less than a knife replacement anyway. Do not pound on the back (spine) of the blade. Keep sharp knives well away from the reach of young children.

Always cut with the edge moving away from you. Knives can have sharp razor edges so handle all knives with care and respect. Do not use for throwing unless specifically produced for that purpose.
If you carry a pocket knife in your pocket with coins or keys you will scratch the handle and bolsters. The same is true if you put all your knives in a cardboard box stacked one atop the other, they will all get scratched, which reduces their value.

The storage room for your knife collection
should be low in humidity and cool.

Knife Collection Care: Remember to take excellent care of your collection, as you are the curator during your lifetime for future generations to enjoy. Moisture and fingerprints are the prime villains to avoid. Check your collection periodically and keep your knives in a dry location. A good rule to follow is to make sure the room that you store your knives in is comfortable for you to stay in, then it is more likely to be a good storage place for your knives. The storage room for your knife collection should be low in humidity and cool. Avoid areas with a high relative humidity or a great shift in temperatures. (Relative humidity can be high in attics and basements, especially if they are unheated or uninsinuated. Moisture from condensation can come into contact with your knives if they are stored in such areas.) If you live where it is humid use silica gel or other desiccants (a drying agent) to help keep your knives dry by placing them in a strong plastic bag that has no holes and can be closed tight. Use desiccants for short-term storage only. Make an asserted effort to wipe your knives at least once a month. Your collection can lose value very quickly if you allow your knives to deteriorate from lack of care and maintenance.

To clean or not to clean your vintage knives:
First, a word of caution: If you think your knife has significant value, consult a professional. Many valuable objects (knives included) are damaged each year by people using the wrong preservation or cleaning techniques. If you are going to clean your own knives, practice on common knives until you get the hang of things.

Kitchen Knife Upkeep: Good kitchen knives can be a major investment, but if properly cared for they can last a lifetime. Cleaning knives after each use will keep them in the best condition and promote food safety. Mild soapy water cleans without damaging and washing by hand only takes a minute and really takes care of your knives. Never use a dishwasher for cleaning your good knives (kitchen or other wise). Doing so could possibly remove the temper from the edge and render the blade soft so it will not hold an edge. When cleaning your knives make sure that the blades don’t touch or bump other objects. The water jets in the dishwasher can knock your knives into other hard objects. Remember that the precision ground cutting edge may be damaged if it strikes other cutlery, pots or pans.

Always use an appropriate cutting board

Always use an appropriate cutting board in the kitchen to get the most out of the sharpness of your knives. Use an cutting board material easy to clean and that is soft. We recommend natural wood or synthetic chopping boards like soft polyethylene. Never use glass, ceramic, metal, marble or any other hard surface as a cutting board as this can have an damaging effect on your knives. When chopping foods that have a tough or waxy exterior (such as bell peppers), chop with the waxy side down, as the more tender inside flesh is easier on knife blades.
Knives require a safe dry storage place, and a knife block is perfect for storing knives. Knife blocks will prevent injury and protect the blade from being damaged.
Cross-contamination is a major food-safety concern. Bacteria transferred from knives and work surfaces, such as cutting boards, to other foods can lead to food poisoning. Mild soapy water cleans and sanitizes if you wash your hands, the cutting board and the knife. We advocate thorough and consistent cleaning for knife upkeep and food-safety!
Keep your wood cutting board clean and oil as needed. Do not use vegetable oil as it will go rancid. Use mineral oil or oil sold to be safe to protect and seal your wood cutting board.

Knife Photography by BladeGallery.com

2009-12-22T17:47:00.000-08:00

Thanks for choosing BladeGallery.com photography studio. Our photos are regularly featured in publications including Blade Magazine, Knives Illustrated, Knives Digest, and Knives Periodical. Our clients range from knifemakers to collectors and dealers. We shoot at our studio as well as at knife shows.

Photography of knives is a careful balance of lighting and perspective, even more so than other art objects because of their reflective surfaces, with each blade presenting its own unique challenge to photograph accurately. Careful considerations are made for each shot that involve the distinct individuality of the blade.

Some knives photograph well with complimentary props or interesting backgrounds where others require more subtle lighting and attention to finer detail. Many knives are best represented with two or more views that can highlight intricate detail areas such as fileworked backbars, stunning Damascus steel or unusual materials on scales and handles. Typically, we combine these views digitally to create the final composite image.

Some knives have stands, sheaths, or boxes that are integral to the art and may be included in the photograph as well. The final image must accurately represent the blade and also have a character and style that is appropriate.

Our studio is entirely digital . . . from the initial photo shoot to layout and developing prints. By using state of the art equipment and directly exposing the photos onto Kodak professional photographic film, we are able to provide a print photo with the quality and durability of traditional film techniques with possibilities that extend far beyond the limitations of print film.

Why digital photography and printing?

Images are immediately viewable and the perfect shot can be identified within a matter of minutes, rather than days
There is no wait for film processing
Computer imaging software makes it possible to print multiple exposures on complex backgrounds, rather than being limited to flat black
With modern digital technology, color balance and detail are equal to print film
Digital images are printed on photo paper, just like traditional film photographs

We are pleased to provide digital images of your blades in a variety of formats as well as high quality photographic prints. Our clients' standards are exacting and they know that our images are the most visually appealing as well as the best value available in the business. Please feel free to call us or send e-mail to info@bladegallery.com so we can discuss your options and get the photography choice that is right for you.

Local event draws knife experts

2009-12-03T05:11:00.000-08:00

By GEOFF FOX

gfox@tampatrib.com

Published: November 13, 2009

LAND O' LAKES - The president of Case & Sons Cutlery Co., one of the world's most famous knife makers, and a local Eagle Scout will be among the luminaries at an annual knife event Saturday at Harvey's Hardware.

Emma Lou Harvey, who operates the store with her son, Paul Harvey, said Case President Tom Arrowsmith will greet knife collectors and Jeremy Baker, an Eagle Scout and student at Wesley Chapel High School, will give a demonstration about knife safety.

"Most of the large (knife) dealers have a knife event every year," EmmaLou Harvey said. "We have people who come from out of state, plus we have a lot of customers from South Tampa."

The event is 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday at the hardware store at 5400 Land O' Lakes Blvd. The store has been in business since 1961.

Last year's event was attended by representatives with Case & Sons, as well as members of the National Knife Collectors Association. Paul Harvey is now considered a "master dealer" of Case knives.

In 2007, the special guest was renowned knife maker Tony Bose. The previous year, Harvey's was the final stop on the 2006 Case Historian Tour.

In 2005, the store hosted the Case Custom Chopper Tour, which included the giveaway of a motorcycle built by Orange County Choppers, run by Paul Teutul Sr. and his sons, stars of the reality cable television show "American Chopper."

For information about the event, call Harvey's Hardware at (813) 996-2400.

Ontario Knife Company(R) Introduces New Utilitac(R) Folding Series by Custom Designer Joe Pardue

2009-11-17T22:19:00.000-08:00

Source: Ontario Knife Company
On 12:58 pm EST, Thursday November 12, 2009

FRANKLINVILLE, N.Y., Nov. 12 /PRNewswire/ -- Ontario Knife Company®, a leading provider of tactical knives to the U.S. military since 1942, has unveiled its new Utilitac® Series of folding knives. Developed by world-renowned custom knifemaker Joe Pardue, this new series combines the practical functionality of utility knives with top design features "honed" on the world's best tactical knives. The result is a cutting-edge folding knife that delivers when it counts, whether in the field, on the job or in a wide variety of tactical situations.

The Ontario Knife Utilitac Series offers 16 new SKUs, including models measuring 7.125" with 4" blades and models ranging from 8.5" to 8.75" long overall. Every knife in the Ontario Knife Utilitac Series features a premium quality .12"-thick blade fashioned from high-chromium 440 stainless steel. This material was specially selected for its exceptional balance of hardness and corrosion resistance, as well as its ability to take and maintain a razor edge.

These new "no-compromise" Ontario Utilitac knives feature injection-molded Zytel handles for superior sturdiness and grip. Available in Green or Black, each handle is designed with aggressive checkering and grooving for a secure grip and solid feel in all situations. Particular attention is paid to the knife's back spine, ensuring maximum grip no matter how or where the user holds this knife. Each model features a lanyard hole (with available rat tails) allowing for different carrying methods. Among other "custom knife" details found on the Ontario Knife Utilitac Series are thick, full liners manufactured from sturdy Cryo-quenched stainless steel. This makes for incredibly solid blade locking, in stark contrast to flimsy cockpit inserts found in other folding knives.

The unique blade designs of the Ontario Knife Utilitac series are available in a choice of plain edge or partially serrated edge. In addition, users can opt for a low-luster Satin blade finish or tactical black finish. Ontario Knife offers the Utilitac with a variety of different blade configurations for specific uses, including a Tanto blade for a thick and extraordinarily strong point, a modified Sheepsfoot for superior slicing abilities, or a Modified Spear-style with a drop point, preferred by many tactical users.

Japanese Knife & Sword Care Article

2009-11-11T21:29:00.000-08:00

by Scott Slobodian

You may have just purchased a very fine Japanese Knife or Sword. Now, how do you take care of it?

The Japanese sword is a product of 13th century technology. As such, its care presents special attention.

Blade:
The blade is hand ground, clay tempered and handle polished piece of high carbon steel. I clean the blade very well and heavily oil it before delivery. There is a lot of oil on the tang and under the habaki. You must keep oil on the blade (or tuff cloth), except when viewing or showing the blade. It was very wet in old Japan, and their swords have little rust. Do not use gun oils or vegetable oils. Clove oil is the best and lasts for a long time. Do not "scrub" with cleaning powder or abrasives... just lightly wipe. Re-oil before replacing the blade. If you need to sharpen the blade, I recommend sending it back to the maker. Because the steel in the middle of the blade is soft it will scratch. Try to form the habit of sliding the blade out on its spine with as little touching of the wood and steel as possible.

Handle (Tsuka):
Handles loosen over time and use. Drive the pen in a bit further or rotate the peg in its hole and reinsert with a hammer tap. Do not try to remove or play with the wrap - it is a done deal.

Blade collar (Habaki):
The habaki is made for each blade and is a perfect fit. Because of this fit, they scratch (and always will). It's is part of the 13th century thinking of Japanese sword and knife smiths. I lightly polish mine out at the shows with a jewelers rag. Do not buff them, the habaki slides into a buffalo horn/micarta collar and locks the blade. This piece can expand or contract according to the weather. You can fix this eaily but wait for a few months until this settles in. A very light filing with a jewelers file will relieve tightness or a slight wipe of crazy glue on the throat will tighten it.

Sheath (Saya):
Most of my saya are rare wood and coated with many layers of cyanoacrylate glue. I have used it for over 15 years with only a few failures. I can repair most chips and scratches. The material has a UV inhibitor that keeps the color of most woods. There are some woods that darken with age, other will not. You should only use furniture wax on the sheath. The sageo (cord mount) is for tying the sword to the belt, not for swinging the sheath.

Rapid quick draw is about the worst thing you could do besides polishing the blade on a buffer. The throat of the saya is delicate and not made for quick draw fantasies.

It is a please to see some of the old swords and knives that I have made. Frequently, they are in perfect condition. This helps me know my method of making and caring for Japanese knives and swords works.

Weapon

2009-01-07T20:02:00.000-08:00

“authorised instructor” means a person authorised by an approved club to give instruction in the use of dangerous weapons;
“authorised member” means a member of an approved club authorised in writing by the club to sell ammunition;
“chief police officer” means the police officer who is responsible for the day-to-day administration and control of police services in the Territory;
“corporate dangerous weapons licence” means a corporate dangerous weapons licence granted or renewed under this Act;
“corporate licensee” means the holder of a corporate dangerous weapons licence;
“corresponding order” means an order under a law of a State or another Territory having the same effect or substantially the same effect as—

(a) a retraining order or an interim restraining order under the Magistrates Court Act 1930 ; or

(b) a protection order or an interim protection order under the Domestic Violence Act 1986 ;
“dangerous weapon” means a weapon from which any shot, bullet or other missile can be discharged or propelled, but does not include—

(a) a prohibited weapon;

(b) a restricted weapon;

(c) an antique weapon;

(d) a long bow, recurve bow or compound bow;

(e) a device commonly known as a stapling gun; or

(f) an explosive-powered tool within the meaning of Part IXA of the Regulations under the Scaffolding and Lifts Act, 1912-1948 of the State of New South Wales in its application in the Territory;
“dangerous weapons licence” means a dangerous weapons licence granted or renewed under this Act;
“dealer”, in relation to dangerous weapons or restricted weapons, means a person who in the ordinary course of business—

(a) manufactures, repairs or modifies dangerous weapons or restricted weapons;

(b) purchases or sells dangerous weapons or restricted weapons; or

(c) has dangerous weapons or restricted weapons in his or her possession for sale, safekeeping, modification or repair;

and includes a person who is a member of an approved club who is a club armourer for that club;
“Dealer's Book” means a Dealer's Book kept under section 40;
“dealer's licence” means a licence granted or renewed under this Act;
“determined fee” means the fee determined by the Minister under section 101 for the purposes of the provision in which the expression occurs;
“endorsed”, in relation to a dangerous weapon or restricted weapon, means endorsed in accordance with section 65;
“foreign dangerous weapons law” means a law of a State or another Territory relating to the possession or use of dangerous weapons, restricted weapons or prohibited weapons;
“gun licence” has the same meaning as it had under the repealed Act;
“licence” means a licence granted under this Act;
“licensed dealer” means a dealer who holds a dealer's licence;
“licensee” means the holder of a licence;
“military type”, in relation to a self-loading centre fire rifle, means a rifle that has been issued or is used by an armed force of the Commonwealth or of a foreign country or which the Registrar is satisfied replicates such a weapon;
“occupier”, in relation to premises, means a person who is, or is reasonably believed to be, in charge of the premises;
“pistol” means any dangerous weapon the overall length of which is less than 70 centimetres, or if the weapon has no stock, the length of the barrel of which is less than 40 centimetres;
“pistol grip weapon” means a weapon, other than a pistol, which is fitted with a pistol grip or a stock designed to fold, swivel telescope or be readily detachable;
“possession”, in relation to a dangerous weapon, restricted weapon or prohibited weapon, includes—

(a) the control of the weapon in any place, whether exclusively or in common with another person; or

(b) an ability to claim or obtain control of the weapon;
“premises” means the whole or any part of any land, building or other structure, vehicle, vessel, aircraft or place;
“prohibited weapon” means—

(a) a pistol grip weapon (other than such a weapon in respect of which a dangerous weapons licence is in force); and

(b) a weapon, article or device specified in Schedule 3;
“public place” means any street, road, public park within the meaning of the Pubic Parks Act 1928 , reserve or other place which the public are entitled to use or which is open to, or used by, the public, whether on payment of money or otherwise;
“Register” means the Register of Weapons kept in accordance with section 12;
“registered”, in relation to a dangerous weapon or restricted weapon, means registered in accordance with section 59;
“Registrar” means the Registrar of Weapons appointed under section 6;
“repealed Act” means the Gun Licence Act 1937 as in force immediately before the commencement date;
“restricted weapons licence” means a restricted weapons licence granted or renewed under this Act;
“restricted weapon” means a weapon, article or device specified in Schedule 2;
“self-loading”, in relation to a dangerous weapon, means a dangerous weapon which is capable of discharging, ejecting and loading a cartridge as a result of one pressure of the trigger;
“sell” includes offer or expose for sale, let on hire, barter or exchange;
“shooting gallery” includes a shooting gallery that is, or if dismantled is, portable;
“spare barrel”, in relation to a dangerous weapon, means—

Razor

2008-12-12T19:53:00.000-08:00

Razor bumps, ingrown hairs, pseudofolliculitis barbae we know they hurt but, why do they appear? It all happens when we shave. While shaving our facial hair gets caught between the follicle or it grows the other way, into the skin. That's what produces the swelling, redness and swelling.

This does not mean you are stuck with razor bumps for life. There are ways to help diminish razor bumps and here in this article we will share these tips with you.

The first step is to use active ingredients. There are tons of men skin care products that claim to alleviate ingrown hairs and razor bumps, but don't rush to conclusions. The truth is that the active ingredient that eliminates razor bumps is Salicylic Acid. What this ingredient does is moisturize, exfoliate and clear you pores thus avoiding any further infections. For even better results use an after shave product that contains salicylic acid and that way it will stay on your skin during the day. The No-No's here is that you should NEVER use products that contain alcohol. Alcohol dries your skin and closes your pore which only worsens your ingrown hairs. Also, do not use foam shaving creams because these also dry your skin. Instead use non-acnegenic shaving creams which are specially made for men with sensitive skin.

Tip number to focuses on how to improve the surface of your skin. Removing the outer layers of your dead skin may sound nasty but to sum it up it's called exfoliating. Men who have ingrown hairs must exfoliate in order to improve the skin's surface. This can easily be done with a gentle face scrub that contains the ingredient we mentioned in the first tip, salicylic acid.

Change is good. And that is why my next tip to you involves you changing the way you shave. By now you should know that shaving too closely is one of the main causes of razor bumps. If you didn't know, well know you know. By shaving too close, your hair stubs will be cut to close to the skin and more prone to getting stuck inside the hair follicle and viola an ingrown hair is born.

A couple of things you can do to avoid shaving too close is first of all not pulling on your skin when you shave. Do not apply too much pressure on the razor blade, shave with the grain and use a single blade razor.

It is crucial you keep this in mind while shaving because if you forget and shave too close the razor bumps will come back to haunt you and it will take a while before you get rid of them again.

What about the ingrown hairs you already have? Now it's time to destroy those little suckers. To get rid of your ingrown hairs you just simple but carefully lift the ingrown end out with tweezers. Warning: Do not pluck them out. Just lift them out of the skin otherwise the ingrown hair will only re-grow deeper. To reduce the redness and swelling you can use products that contain azulene, allantoin and witch hazel. Those ingredients will keep you comfortable.

2008-08-23T04:49:00.000-07:00

The kind of custom knife