by Scott Slobodian
You may have just purchased a very fine Japanese Knife or Sword. Now, how do you take care of it?
The Japanese sword is a product of 13th century technology. As such, its care presents special attention.
Blade:
The blade is hand ground, clay tempered and handle polished piece of high carbon steel. I clean the blade very well and heavily oil it before delivery. There is a lot of oil on the tang and under the habaki. You must keep oil on the blade (or tuff cloth), except when viewing or showing the blade. It was very wet in old Japan, and their swords have little rust. Do not use gun oils or vegetable oils. Clove oil is the best and lasts for a long time. Do not "scrub" with cleaning powder or abrasives... just lightly wipe. Re-oil before replacing the blade. If you need to sharpen the blade, I recommend sending it back to the maker. Because the steel in the middle of the blade is soft it will scratch. Try to form the habit of sliding the blade out on its spine with as little touching of the wood and steel as possible.
Handle (Tsuka):
Handles loosen over time and use. Drive the pen in a bit further or rotate the peg in its hole and reinsert with a hammer tap. Do not try to remove or play with the wrap - it is a done deal.
Blade collar (Habaki):
The habaki is made for each blade and is a perfect fit. Because of this fit, they scratch (and always will). It's is part of the 13th century thinking of Japanese sword and knife smiths. I lightly polish mine out at the shows with a jewelers rag. Do not buff them, the habaki slides into a buffalo horn/micarta collar and locks the blade. This piece can expand or contract according to the weather. You can fix this eaily but wait for a few months until this settles in. A very light filing with a jewelers file will relieve tightness or a slight wipe of crazy glue on the throat will tighten it.
Sheath (Saya):
Most of my saya are rare wood and coated with many layers of cyanoacrylate glue. I have used it for over 15 years with only a few failures. I can repair most chips and scratches. The material has a UV inhibitor that keeps the color of most woods. There are some woods that darken with age, other will not. You should only use furniture wax on the sheath. The sageo (cord mount) is for tying the sword to the belt, not for swinging the sheath.
Rapid quick draw is about the worst thing you could do besides polishing the blade on a buffer. The throat of the saya is delicate and not made for quick draw fantasies.
It is a please to see some of the old swords and knives that I have made. Frequently, they are in perfect condition. This helps me know my method of making and caring for Japanese knives and swords works.